Darwin – Kakadu National Park.
After six nights in Darwin we set off for Kakadu and beyond – with no program. As usual we depart early at 6am -a lot cooler, yet light enough to keep a look out for animals crossing the road.
Our first stop – Fogg Dam. We arrive just as the sun is rising and the place lives up to its name – quite foggy over the wetlands. We have been advised to be careful on the causeway as the crocs have been seen basking there. The drive along the causeway is very productive with several bird hides along the length and one at the end.
At our first stop we are quickly rewarded with an obliging White-browed Crake.
White-browed Crake, Fogg Dam
White-browed Crake, Fogg Dam
White-browed Crake, Fogg Dam
White-browed Crake, Fogg Dam
White-browed Crake, Fogg Dam
Red chested Flufftail captured by Wayne Sykes at uMzinkulu River Lodge
Along the way we see a number of waterbirds but also a few other specials.
Fogg Dam
Fogg Dam
Fogg Dam
Fogg Dam
Brolga, Fogg Dam
Brolga, Fogg Dam
Comb Crested Jacana, Fogg Dam
Comb Crested Jacana, Fogg Dam
Comb Crested Jacana, Fogg Dam
Common Greenshank, Fogg Dam
Crimson Finch, Fogg Dam
Crimson Finch, Fogg Dam
Darter, Fogg Dam
Fogg Dam
Lotus Lilly, Fogg Dam
Fogg Dam
Mystery Raptor, Fogg Dam
Radjah Shelduck, Fogg Dam
Paperbark Flycatcher, Fogg Dam
Rose-crowned Fruit-Dove, Fogg Dam
Shining Flycatcher- female, Fogg Dam
Varied Triller, Fogg Dam
Whiskered Tern, Fogg Dam
Broad-billed Flycatcher, Fogg Dam
Green Pygmy Goose, Fogg Dam
Then a walk in the woodlands beside the wetlands is surprisingly active – and Sally sees a Pheasant Coucal much to my dismay as it was readily visible.
After several hours there, we head for Mary River. The campsite is reasonably priced, shady and it has a good cookhouse. We are greeted by Little Correllas everywhere bathing in the spray and puddles as the grounds are watered.
There are several good walks in the camp which is beside the Mary River. On one that evening we had good views of a pair of Dollarbirds amongst others.
Mary River Camp
Mary River Camp – ablutions
White-bellied Cuckooshrike, Mary River Camp
Torresian Crow, Mary River Camp
Yellow Oriole, Mary River Camp
Blue Winged Kukaburra, Mary River Camp
Blue Winged Kukaburra, Mary River Camp
Dollarbird, Mary River Camp
Dollarbird, Mary River Camp
Dollarbird, Mary River Camp
Dollarbird, Mary River Camp
Dollarbird, Mary River Camp
Double-banded Finches, Mary River Camp
Double-banded Finches, Mary River Camp
Joey and Mum – Wallabies, Mary River Camp
Little Corrella, Mary River Camp
Black-tailed Cockatoo, Mary River Camp
The next morning we were up early and headed for Bird Billabong about 8 kms from the camp. We arrive at 06h15 – it is almost an hour’s walk to the billabong and we see a number of Wallabies and their kin along the way.
There is a good bird hide unfortunately on the west side of the billabong – meaning we are facing into the rising sun. An hour spent there was very productive for waterbirds. And we even saw a large family of feral pigs wallowing in the billabong.
Bird Billabong – Mary River
Bird Billabong – Mary River
Bird Billabong – Mary River
Bird Billabong – Mary River
Bird Billabong – Mary River
Bird Billabong – Mary River
Bird Billabong – Mary River
Bird Billabong – Mary River
Bird Billabong – Mary River
Pink-eared Duck, Bird Billabong – Mary River
Whistling Kite, Bird Billabong – Mary River
White-bellied Sea Eagle, Bird Billabong – Mary River
Feral Pig, Bird Billabong – Mary River
Feral Pig, Bird Billabong – Mary River
Feral Pig, Bird Billabong – Mary River
Afterwards we return to the campsite and enjoy a good cook up at the cookhouse.
Next stop is Kakadu. Along the way we stop at several places and the Mamukala wetlands just off the highway and a short way from the car park (for a change) was teeming with waterbirds.
Kakadu NP
Kakadu – East Alligator River
Kakadu – East Alligator River
Mamukala Wetlands
Mamukala Wetlands
Mamukala Wetlands
Mamukala Wetlands
Torresian Crow, Mamukala Wetlands
White-gaped Honeyeater, Kakadu
Australian Pelican, Mamukala Wetlands
Australian Pelican, Mamukala Wetlands
Little Corella, Mamukala Wetlands
Red-kneed Dotterell, Mamukala Wetlands
Red-kneed Dotterell, Mamukala Wetlands
Red-kneed Dotterell, Mamukala Wetlands
Red-kneed Dotterell, Mamukala Wetlands
Red-kneed Dotterell, Mamukala Wetlands
Pied Heron, Mamukala Wetlands
Pied Heron, Mamukala Wetlands & Plumed Whistling-Ducks
Purple Swamphen, Mamukala Wetlands
On to Jabiru – the main town in Kakadu NP – and to the Kadadu Lodge campsite. Kakadu is about 20000 sq. kms (1/3 the size of Tasmania). Over 10% of the surface area is constantly under water. It is probably the only National Park worldwide which houses an entire river system – the Alligator Rivers of the Top End.
Kakadu Lodge, Jabiru
Kakadu Lodge, Jabiru
Kakadu Lodge, Jabiru
Kakadu Lodge, Jabiru
Kakadu Lodge, Jabiru
Kakadu Lodge, Jabiru
A morning was spent in Gubara looking in vain for sandstone specials. However we were lucky enough to find Red-winged Parrots and a Collared Sparrowhawk.
Nourlangie
Road to Gubara
Gubara
Nourlangie
Nourlangie
Red-winged Parrot, Gubara
Red-winged Parrot, Gubara
Torresian Crow, Nourlangie
Collared Sparrowhawk, Gubara
Collared Sparrowhawk, Gubara
We tried Nourlangie before doing the tourist bit and going to Ubirr to see the Aboriginal Rock Art – quite impressive despite the heat.
Nourlangie:
Nourlangie Rock
Rock Art – Nourlangie
Rock Art – Nourlangie
Rock Art – Nourlangie
Rock Art – Nourlangie
Rock Art – Nourlangie
Rock Art – Nourlangie
Ubirr:
To Ubirr
Aboriginal Rock Art at Ubirr
Aboriginal Rock Art at Ubirr
Aboriginal Rock Art at Ubirr
Aboriginal Rock Art at Ubirr
Rock Art – Nourlangie
Hennies Crossing – Crocs go wild fishing with the estuarial tidal swings
Hennies Crossing – Crocs go wild fishing with the estuarial tidal swings
Hennies Crossing – Crocs go wild fishing with the estuarial tidal swings
That night we head for Cooinda and Gagudju campsite for 2 nights. The intention here was to go on their well known early morning boat cruise where birding is a prime part. We were not disappointed – the wildlife was teeming, thousands of Magpie Geese and hundreds of Green Pygmy-Geese amongst a vast array of ducks and herons – even saw a dingo – albeit fleetingly. Despite the $100 per person the trip was brilliant. Many lovely Kingfishers and even a GBH as they call it – a Great-billed Heron.
Yellow Water Cruise
Board Walk – Yellow River Cruise
Gagudju – Yellow Water Cruise
Board Walk – Yellow River Cruise
Gagudju – Yellow Water Cruise
Gagudju – Yellow Water Cruise
Gagudju – Yellow Water Cruise
Gagudju – Yellow Water Cruise. Nathan playing the Digiary-doo (exceptionally good)
Magpie Geese – 1 of many skeins, Gagudju – Yellow Water
White-necked Heron, Gagudju – Yellow Water
Willie Wagtail, Gagudju – Yellow Water
Arafura Fantail, Gagudju – Yellow Water
Arafura Fantail, Gagudju – Yellow Water
Australian Pratincole, Gagudju – Yellow Water
Australian Pratincole, Gagudju – Yellow Water
Australian Sea-water crocodile, Gagudju – Yellow Water
Australian Sea-water crocodile, Gagudju – Yellow Water
Azure Kingfisher, Gagudju,Yellow River
Azure Kingfisher & Restless Flycatcher, Gagudju,Yellow River
Dingo, Gagudju – Yellow Water
Azure Kingfisher, Gagudju,Yellow River
Azure Kingfisher, Gagudju,Yellow River
Azure Kingfisher, Gagudju,Yellow River
Bar-breasted Honeyeater, Gagudju
Gagudju – Yellow Water Cruise
Blue-faced Honeyeater, Gagudju
Forest Kingfisher, Gagudju – Yellow Water
Forest Kingfisher, Gagudju – Yellow Water
Forest Kingfisher, Gagudju – Yellow Water
Golden Tree Snake, Gagudju – Yellow Water
Great Bowerbird, Gagudju
Great-billed Heron, Gagudju – Yellow Water
Great-billed Heron, Gagudju – Yellow Water
Great-billed Heron, Gagudju – Yellow Water
Great-billed Heron, Gagudju – Yellow Water
Great-billed Heron, Gagudju – Yellow Water
Little Kingfisher, Gagudju – Yellow Water
Little Kingfisher, Gagudju – Yellow Water
Pied Heron, Gagudju – Yellow Water
Pied Heron, Gagudju – Yellow Water
Little Pied Cormorant, Gagudju – Yellow Water
Mistletoebird, Gagudju
Mistletoebird, Gagudju
Nankeen Night-Heron, Gagudju – Yellow Water
Pacific Baza, Gagudju
Pacific Baza, Gagudju
Pacific Baza, Gagudju
Pied Heron, Gagudju – Yellow Water
Purple Swamphen, Gagudju – Yellow Water
Rufous-banded Honeyeater, Gagudju – Yellow Water
Sacred Kingfisher, Gagudju – Yellow Water
Sacred Kingfisher, Gagudju – Yellow Water
Sacred Kingfisher, Gagudju – Yellow Water
Shining Flycatcher – male, Gagudju – Yellow Water
White-bellied Sea-Eagle, Gagudju, Yellow Water
White-bellied Sea-Eagle, Gagudju – Yellow Water
White-bellied Sea-Eagle, Gagudju – Yellow Water
Gagudju – Yellow Water Cruise
Gagudju – Yellow Water Cruise
Breakfast at the lodge after the cruise was included – and we royally dug in. Even at breakfast the birds still appeared – Mistletoebirds and a Great Bowerbird robbing guests’ plates.
The campsite has a very welcoming pool and birdlife in the grounds is abundant – check out one of our first sightings:
Pacific Baza, Gagudju
Pacific Baza, Gagudju
Pacific Baza, Gagudju
We also went on the late evening cruise which was not so bird orientated however we did find the Little Kingfisher although the captain nearly did not bother to stop!. This second trip is at a discount $25 each. If I had realised that we could have gone on the early morning cruise the next day for that price then that is the choice I would have made – even if it meant paying an extra $11 to cover the cost of breakfast again.
And that concluded our stay in Kakadu. Perhaps we should have gone to Gunlom early one morning to have another go at seeing the sandstone specials – however 40 kms each way on a dirt track was a bit risky especially as we were told that we were not covered by any insurance if we went off road.
And so we headed for Pine Creek and an overnight stay in an unpowered but cheap campsite at Edith Falls. Along the way we bumped into a few interesting birds.
Kakadu NP south entrance
en route to Pine Creek
Shining Flycatcher – female, Gagudju
Shining Flycatcher – female, Gagudju
Barking Owl, Gagudju
Barking Owl, Gagudju
Brown Falcon, Gagudju to Pine Creek
Brown Falcon, Gagudju to Pine Creek
Dollarbird, Pine Creek
Grey Butcherbird, en route to Pine Creek
Spotted Harrier, en route to Pine Creek
Spotted Harrier, en route to Pine Creek
The swim in the pools were a lifesaver – however the Falls were not that impressive except that they were still flowing rapidly for the end of the dry season.
We did have several good sightings in Edith Falls including a late night Bush Stone-Curlew and I got my sighting of a female Pheasant Coucal.
Edith Falls
Edith Falls
Edith Falls
Edith Falls
Edith Falls
Pheasant Coucal, Edith Falls
Pheasant Coucal, Edith Falls
Great Bowerbird, Edith Falls
Leaden Flycatcher, Edith Falls
Leaden Flycatcher, Edith Falls
Monday morning – real early start – meeting Mike Reed (a Birding Pal based in Katherine) – what a superb morning he gave us. We went to a secret site of his to find the elusive Hooded Parrots and Goudian Finches. Of course it drizzled which dampened the birds spirits. However after a very patient wait we were rewarded with both – along with a number of other species we had yet to see.
Ferguson River Pools
Ferguson River Pools
Ferguson River Pools
Ferguson River Pools
White-faced Heron, Ferguson River
Yellow-tinted Honeyeater, Ferguson River
Assorted Finches, Ferguson River
Collared Sparrowhawk, Ferguson River
Crimson Finch – male, Ferguson River
Crimson Finches, Ferguson River
Diamond Dove, Ferguson River
Diamond Dove, Ferguson River
Finches &; Honeyeaters, Ferguson River
Goudian Finch & Diamond Dove, Ferguson River
Goudian Finch, Ferguson River
Goudian Finch, Ferguson River
Goudian Finch, Ferguson River
Hooded Parots, Ferguson River
Hooded Parrot – female, Ferguson River
Hooded Parrot – male, Ferguson River
Hooded Parrot – male, Ferguson River
Hooded Parrot – male, Ferguson River
Hooded Parrots, Ferguson River
Hooded Parrots, Ferguson River
Hooded Parrots, Ferguson River
Little Friarbird, Ferguson River
Little Friarbirds & Long-tailed Finch, Ferguson River
Long-tailed & Double-barred Finch with Brown Honeyeater, Ferguson River
Long-tailed Finch, Ferguson River
Long-tailed, Crimson & Double-barred Finches, Ferguson River
Magpie-lark – female, Ferguson River
Magpie-lark- male, Ferguson River
Masked & Long-tailed Finches, Ferguson River
Masked Finches, Ferguson River
Nankeen Night-Heron, Ferguson River
Rufous-throated Honeyeater, Ferguson River
Masked Finch, Ferguson River
Next it is the Katherine region and perhaps down to Konunurra.
Paul & Sally Bartho
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