Darwin – Kakadu National Park. (Second leg)

Darwin – Kakadu National Park.

After six nights in Darwin we set off for Kakadu and beyond – with no program. As usual we depart early at 6am -a lot cooler, yet light enough to keep a look out for animals crossing the road.

Our first stop – Fogg Dam. We arrive just as the sun is rising and the place lives up to its name – quite foggy over the wetlands. We have been advised to be careful on the causeway as the crocs have been seen basking there. The drive along the causeway is very productive with several bird hides along the length and one at the end.

At our first stop we are quickly rewarded with an obliging White-browed Crake.

White-browed Crake, Fogg Dam

Red chested Flufftail captured by Wayne Sykes at uMzinkulu River Lodge

Along the way we see a number of waterbirds but also a few other specials.

Fogg Dam

Brolga, Fogg Dam

Comb Crested Jacana, Fogg Dam

Common Greenshank, Fogg Dam

Crimson Finch, Fogg Dam

Darter, Fogg Dam

Fogg Dam

Lotus Lilly, Fogg Dam

Fogg Dam

Mystery Raptor, Fogg Dam

Radjah Shelduck, Fogg Dam

Paperbark Flycatcher, Fogg Dam

Rose-crowned Fruit-Dove, Fogg Dam

Shining Flycatcher- female, Fogg Dam

Varied Triller, Fogg Dam

Whiskered Tern, Fogg Dam

Broad-billed Flycatcher, Fogg Dam

Green Pygmy Goose, Fogg Dam

Then a walk in the woodlands beside the wetlands is surprisingly active – and Sally sees a Pheasant Coucal much to my dismay as it was readily visible.

After several hours there, we head for Mary River. The campsite is reasonably priced, shady and it has a good cookhouse. We are greeted by Little Correllas everywhere bathing in the spray and puddles as the grounds are watered.

There are several good walks in the camp which is beside the Mary River. On one that evening we had good views of a pair of Dollarbirds amongst others.

Mary River Camp

Mary River Camp – ablutions

White-bellied Cuckooshrike, Mary River Camp

Torresian Crow, Mary River Camp

Yellow Oriole, Mary River Camp

Blue Winged Kukaburra, Mary River Camp

Dollarbird, Mary River Camp

Double-banded Finches, Mary River Camp

Joey and Mum – Wallabies, Mary River Camp

Little Corrella, Mary River Camp

Black-tailed Cockatoo, Mary River Camp

The next morning we were up early and headed for Bird Billabong about 8 kms from the camp. We arrive at 06h15 – it is almost an hour’s walk to the billabong and we see a number of Wallabies and their kin along the way.

There is a good bird hide unfortunately on the west side of the billabong – meaning we are facing into the rising sun. An hour spent there was very productive for waterbirds. And we even saw a large family of feral pigs wallowing in the billabong.

Bird Billabong – Mary River

Pink-eared Duck, Bird Billabong – Mary River

Whistling Kite, Bird Billabong – Mary River

White-bellied Sea Eagle, Bird Billabong – Mary River

Feral Pig, Bird Billabong – Mary River

Afterwards we return to the campsite and enjoy a good cook up at the cookhouse.

Next stop is Kakadu. Along the way we stop at several places and the Mamukala wetlands just off the highway and a short way from the car park (for a change) was teeming with waterbirds.

Kakadu NP

Kakadu – East Alligator River

Mamukala Wetlands

Torresian Crow, Mamukala Wetlands

White-gaped Honeyeater, Kakadu

Australian Pelican, Mamukala Wetlands

Little Corella, Mamukala Wetlands

Red-kneed Dotterell, Mamukala Wetlands

Pied Heron, Mamukala Wetlands

Pied Heron, Mamukala Wetlands & Plumed Whistling-Ducks

Purple Swamphen, Mamukala Wetlands

On to Jabiru – the main town in Kakadu NP – and to the Kadadu Lodge campsite. Kakadu is about 20000 sq. kms (1/3 the size of Tasmania). Over 10% of the surface area is constantly under water. It is probably the only National Park worldwide which houses an entire river system – the Alligator Rivers of the Top End.

Kakadu Lodge, Jabiru

A morning was spent in Gubara looking in vain for sandstone specials. However we were lucky enough to find Red-winged Parrots and a Collared Sparrowhawk.

Nourlangie

Road to Gubara

Gubara

Nourlangie

Red-winged Parrot, Gubara

Torresian Crow, Nourlangie

Collared Sparrowhawk, Gubara

We tried Nourlangie before doing the tourist bit and going to Ubirr to see the Aboriginal Rock Art – quite impressive despite the heat.

Nourlangie:

Nourlangie Rock

Rock Art – Nourlangie

Ubirr:

To Ubirr

Aboriginal Rock Art at Ubirr

Rock Art – Nourlangie

Hennies Crossing – Crocs go wild fishing with the estuarial tidal swings

That night we head for Cooinda and Gagudju campsite for 2 nights. The intention here was to go on their well known early morning boat cruise where birding is a prime part. We were not disappointed – the wildlife was teeming, thousands of Magpie Geese and hundreds of Green Pygmy-Geese amongst a vast array of ducks and herons – even saw a dingo – albeit fleetingly. Despite the $100 per person the trip was brilliant. Many lovely Kingfishers and even a GBH as they call it – a Great-billed Heron.

Yellow Water Cruise

Board Walk – Yellow River Cruise

Gagudju – Yellow Water Cruise

Board Walk – Yellow River Cruise

Gagudju – Yellow Water Cruise

Gagudju – Yellow Water Cruise. Nathan playing the Digiary-doo (exceptionally good)

Magpie Geese – 1 of many skeins, Gagudju – Yellow Water

White-necked Heron, Gagudju – Yellow Water

Willie Wagtail, Gagudju – Yellow Water

Arafura Fantail, Gagudju – Yellow Water

Australian Pratincole, Gagudju – Yellow Water

Australian Sea-water crocodile, Gagudju – Yellow Water

Azure Kingfisher, Gagudju,Yellow River

Azure Kingfisher & Restless Flycatcher, Gagudju,Yellow River

Dingo, Gagudju – Yellow Water

Azure Kingfisher, Gagudju,Yellow River

Bar-breasted Honeyeater, Gagudju

Gagudju – Yellow Water Cruise

Black-necked Stork - female, Gagudju - Yellow Water

Blue-faced Honeyeater, Gagudju

Forest Kingfisher, Gagudju – Yellow Water

Golden Tree Snake, Gagudju – Yellow Water

Great Bowerbird, Gagudju

Great-billed Heron, Gagudju – Yellow Water

Little Kingfisher, Gagudju – Yellow Water

Pied Heron, Gagudju – Yellow Water

Little Pied Cormorant, Gagudju – Yellow Water

Mistletoebird, Gagudju

Nankeen Night-Heron, Gagudju – Yellow Water

Pacific Baza, Gagudju

Pied Heron, Gagudju – Yellow Water

Purple Swamphen, Gagudju – Yellow Water

Rufous-banded Honeyeater, Gagudju – Yellow Water

Sacred Kingfisher, Gagudju – Yellow Water

Shining Flycatcher – male, Gagudju – Yellow Water

White-bellied Sea-Eagle, Gagudju, Yellow Water

White-bellied Sea-Eagle, Gagudju – Yellow Water

Gagudju – Yellow Water Cruise

Breakfast at the lodge after the cruise was included – and we royally dug in. Even at breakfast the birds still appeared – Mistletoebirds and a Great Bowerbird robbing guests’ plates.

The campsite has a very welcoming pool and birdlife in the grounds is abundant – check out one of our first sightings:

Pacific Baza, Gagudju

We also went on the late evening cruise which was not so bird orientated however we did find the Little Kingfisher although the captain nearly did not bother to stop!. This second trip is at a discount $25 each. If I had realised that we could have gone on the early morning cruise the next day for that price then that is the choice I would have made – even if it meant paying an extra $11 to cover the cost of breakfast again.

And that concluded our stay in Kakadu. Perhaps we should have gone to Gunlom early one morning to have another go at seeing the sandstone specials – however 40 kms each way on a dirt track was a bit risky especially as we were told that we were not covered by any insurance if we went off road.

And so we headed for Pine Creek and an overnight stay in an unpowered but cheap campsite at Edith Falls. Along the way we bumped into a few interesting birds.

Kakadu NP south entrance

en route to Pine Creek

Shining Flycatcher – female, Gagudju

Barking Owl, Gagudju

Brown Falcon, Gagudju to Pine Creek

Dollarbird, Pine Creek

Grey Butcherbird, en route to Pine Creek

Spotted Harrier, en route to Pine Creek

The swim in the pools were a lifesaver – however the Falls were not that impressive except that they were still flowing rapidly for the end of the dry season.

We did have several good sightings in Edith Falls including a late night Bush Stone-Curlew and I got my sighting of a female Pheasant Coucal.

Edith Falls

Pheasant Coucal, Edith Falls

Great Bowerbird, Edith Falls

Leaden Flycatcher, Edith Falls

Monday morning – real early start – meeting Mike Reed (a Birding Pal based in Katherine) – what a superb morning he gave us. We went to a secret site of his to find the elusive Hooded Parrots and Goudian Finches. Of course it drizzled which dampened the birds spirits. However after a very patient wait we were rewarded with both – along with a number of other species we had yet to see.